25 Things I Love About Paris: #25

25. Making family memories.

It would be an understatement to say that my kids didn't want to move to France. The evening we laid the news on them, our eldest left the dinner table in tears. But two years is a lifetime when you're young and now they will honestly tell you that, while there are things back home they miss, particularly friends and food, they really do like living in Paris. The friends they stay in touch with via Internet phone and e-mail and the food...well let's just say there are fewer things they're pining for now than when we had just arrived.

All told, three years in Paris is, without a doubt, the biggest gift my husband and I have ever given our kids and ourselves. Our kids may forget how to solve simultaneous equations and the ins and outs of photosynthesis but they won't forget going to the boulangerie after school, riding their bikes in the Bois de Boulogne, free museum Sundays or admiring the Christmas lights on the Champs Elysees. And we won't forget watching them discover a whole new world, both in Paris and beyond, our youngest correcting our French pronunciation and our oldest learning to navigate the subway solo, or both of them having the good manners not to refuse snails and foie gras when offered.

Paris will always be a part of us and our intertwined lives, no matter where we find ourselves. Of the 25 things we all love about Paris, we love them most because we have experienced them together.

25 Things I Love About Paris: #24

24. The friends I've made here.

Being an expat in Paris reminds me a little bit of being a freshman in college, only the food is better. Suddenly you're in a new environment, bottom of the heap, and all those lifelines and support systems from your past are gone.

But just like in college, when I thought I'd never find friends like those I had in high school, it didn't take much time to forge new connections. Thrown together with others who also felt a bit like fish out of water, we started trading tips on this and that. And with the passage of time, I've made some true friends. We explore different neighborhoods, go to museums, swap restaurant and travel recommendations, get advice on doctors and dentists, exercise and cook together, provide back up child care, while away the time over cups of coffee, hand down kids' clothes, and borrow books from one another. And just like those college friends who are still so dear, I've got a feeling that these folks will be with me far beyond my Paris years.

25 Things I Love About Paris: #23

23. Exploring the different neighborhoods

One of the true joys of living in Paris is having the time to explore the different quartiers at a leisurely pace. Some times a museum visit takes me to a neighborhood I've never visited before; other times, it's a search for a shop selling something that's not readily available near me. I've taken tours, both with professional guides or just with a trusted travel book in hand, and enjoyed them all. Whether it's the wide boulevards in the busy 9th arrondissement or the quiet alleyways of Belleville or Butte aux Cailles, there's always something to see and learn. Maybe it's a shop window, a historical marker, an unusual building facade, or just someone in a crazy getup.

Personally, I find that exploring always stimulates the appetite. What better excuse to try a restaurant like Lao Lane Xang II, serving up delicious Thai-Vietnamese fare on Avenue d'Ivry in the 13th or Le Josselin near Montparnasse for some authentic Breton crepes? Just remember to wear comfortable shoes, and to pack your map and your umbrella. Keep your eyes peeled and you'll be ready for whatever Paris throws your way.

Ham and Antiques

It was a beautiful spring day here yesterday and I spent a good part of it on the island of Chatou, just west of Paris, where there's a well known antiques fair each spring and fall. For some reason, this event is known as the Foire aux Jambons. How ham got involved I'll never know, but it made for some delicious smells. Believe it or not, you can actually work up an appetite going stall to stall examining silver, ceramics, furniture, tools, signs, and gimracks of every description. Had I been in the market, I could have bought klieg lights, an antique gasoline pump, commodes and light fixtures encrusted in gold, or enough silver cutlery to serve the entire court at Versailles. In fact, I just came home with a hand painted platter and even bargained for a pretty good price. The highlight of the day: the warm sunshine, spending time with my friends, and the best ham sandwich I've ever eaten.



Just a sampling of the wares for those with a chateau to furnish.


Or treat yourself to some rusted toys?


The choices? Ham on a plate or as a sandwich, with or without vegetables.


Roasted pig with endives, onions, tomatoes, carrots, and zucchini.


I didn't see anyone order the pig's head but I'm sure it didn't go to waste.


And yes, you could even buy the kitchen sink.

What Popped Up on My Computer Today

Internet advertising is something else. I imagine that you have just as much chance of getting a green card this way as getting rich by investing in one of those Nigerian bank deals.

25 Things I Love About Paris: #22

22. The profusion of florists.

Paris has a very different retail mix than Washington, DC. There are lots more shops dedicated to certain types of food (fruits and vegetables, bread and pastry, cheese, and chocolate) and there also seem to be lots more shops selling children's apparel, shoe repair guys, and ladies who will alter your clothes. I can't figure out what exactly there is less of in Paris than in my neighborhood in DC except for maybe mattress stores. There are certainly fewer Starbucks and CVS drug stores although there are plenty of small brasseries and pharmacies that serve essentially the same purpose.

At any rate, I certainly enjoy the numerous flower shops, all of which have displays spilling out onto the sidewalk. I love having fresh flowers in the house and often regret the amount I spent on flowers for my wedding. If only I had spent that same sum on bouquets here and there! Fortunately, admiring these beautiful displays costs nothing but the time it takes to walk around the block.

25 Things I Love About Paris: #21

21. Glimpses of secret worlds. Parisian apartments and houses rarely share their inner selves with the rest of us. Ground floor windows are shuttered. Doors bar entrance to courtyards and high fences keep nosy onlookers from peeking into gardens and terraces.


But occasionally, the shutters go up, the doors open to admit visitors and the voyeurs among us get a glimpse into the secret inner life of others. There may be flowers and greenery, cobblestoned courts, remnants of stables or workshops. You can let your imagination run wild or just keep on walking.