Country Cute

I'm sure it's not politic to say so but in my opinion, some of the smaller villages around Paris can be dreary little places in mid-winter, all grey stone, gates and shutters closed tight, everything silent except on market day. But in spring and summer, when those flower boxes and rose bushes get going, they really are something else. Well maybe not enough to charm me into small-town life but awfully darn sweet all the same.

Yesterday, my hiking group headed south of town to the department of the Yvelines for a long walk through the fields and forest between Coignières and Saint-Rémy-lès-Chevreuse. The loveliest stretch was along a small canal in the village of Chevreuse known as the promenade des petit ponts. In another age, the properties bordering the canal were all tanneries. But that's all a thing of the past and the only thing we encountered on this stretch was a group of elderly ladies sketching. They couldn't have picked a better spot.

Name That Warrior

There are lots of classical stone faces adorning buildings in Paris. It may be Zeus scowling down over the portico or perhaps a graceful muse. But this guy?



Perhaps he's a friend of Asterix.

Gien

Over the weekend, I packed my kids off to camp for a week and my husband is away on business for a few days so it's just me kicking around the house. I love them all but let me tell you. I'm kind of loving it. At least for the moment. I've got 72 hours on my own to do or not as I please, and I'm trying to find the right balance between getting things done and just enjoying myself.

So yesterday, with the company of a wonderful friend whose busy schedule has kept us from spending time together lately, I hit the road for a two hour drive to Gien, the town in the Loire Valley known primarily for its beautiful porcelain. These dishes are gorgeous but they're not cheap, and I've been wanting to check out the deals on seconds at the factory outlet for quite awhile.


Gien produces over 40 patterns so there was a lot to look at, although I quickly ruled out anything that wouldn't marry well with my blue and white Dansk. (A completely new set of china? Out of the question!) And then I just couldn't bring myself to pay 17 euros a piece for the dessert plates I'd been dreaming about. Still I didn't come away empty handed and there were definitely some bargains to be had. All seconds were priced at 35 percent below the regular retail price (and for the most part, the defects were not obvious to my eye) and there were additional markdowns of up to 50 percent on certain lines.

With lunch and a lot of time for girl talk coming and going, it was well worth the trip. If you're in Paris without a car, Point a la Ligne just off Place Victor Hugo in the 16th arrondissement is also offering second choice Gien at 30 percent off throughout this month (albeit with a much smaller selection). Gien also has boutiques at 18 rue de l'Arcade in the 8th and 13 rue Jacob in the 6th but I haven't been by to see whether they're offering any discounts right now.

Gien Earthenware Factory
Open Monday through Saturday (with the exception of holidays)
About 150 kilometers southeast of Paris

Vehicles of Paris: Part 22

Nicolas, the wine merchant with shops everywhere in Paris, has initiated a new line of wine gifts and they've contracted with La Petite Reine, a bicycle delivery service, for deliveries around town. According to the Web site, the bike and cart weigh about 100 kilos and can carry 180 kilos of merchandise. Bicycle messengers are usually exceptionally fit; the guys who peddle these babies must really be in good shape. Now if they would just put a water bottle cage on that bike....

But It's A Dry Heat

Forgive me but when the weather goes to extremes, it's hard to think about anything else. Just like this time last year, it has been super hot in Paris this week with the highs topping out around 90. Air conditioning is more of an idea than a reality. The only real way to cope is to dress lightly, stay hydrated, and keep out of the sun. And pity the poor dusty tourists who must do all to get the most out of their Paris vacation, including these two who at least found shade and comfortable place to sit beneath the Arc de Triomphe. I feel as crumpled and sweaty. At least I don't have to run around to see all the sights. Right now, soaking my feet, a cold drink, and a spot on the couch by the open window sounds just about perfect.

Update: Dark skies and rain showers this am and the canicule already seems to be a thing of the past.

Limoger

Okay, I'm a little bit behind on the news. So shoot me. Or just get in your time machine and travel back to earlier in the week. Here's the French take on President Obama's decision to give General Stanley McChrystal the boot. The headline for the article in Le Figaro read: Limogé, le général McChrystal en retraite.

If you're stumped by the term, "Limogé," let me enlighten you. It's the past participle of the verb, "se faire limoger" which means literally to send someone to Limoges. Figuratively, it means, "So long sucker! You are relieved of your duties and sent to the provinces." Supposedly, this dates from the World War I when French general Joffre had to relieve a group of insubordinate officers of their duties and sent them away from the front. Not all of them ended up in Limoges but somehow the name stuck.

I'm dreaming, though, of a corollary situation in American English where the headline in last week's New York Times might have read, "Paducah-ed, General McChrystal takes his leave." It's got a ring to it, doesn't it?

If you're from Kentucky and you find this offensive, come up with a snappy alternative to insult some other part of the country and leave it in the comments section.

To Tutoyer or Not?

My French teacher apologized the other day, stopping in the midst of the article we were reading about the implications of the recent elections in Belgium, to express her regret that she had slipped into using the familiar "tu" form of the word "you" with us, rather than the more formal "vous." Did she get a lecture from her superior? Or did she just wake up in the middle of night and cringe with shame at the realization that she had slipped into the territory of family and friends without asking permission to do so?

My classmates, thankfully, had the same reaction as me. No problem. After all, we've been with her for almost two years now. She's warm and friendly and does her best to decode the mysteries of French politics, culture, history, whatever, answering a million silly questions, always with good humor. So no offense taken.

My default position has always been to use "vous," as a safeguard against offending anyone with whom I might be talking. I always just figured that it's a better bet to be on the more formal side. But there's a trap. You should never "vous" a child, for example. And yes, I'm the idiot talking to the two year old like he's a professor or something. But even more importantly, once someone starts tutoying you, you really don't want to create the impression (by your continued use of "vous"), that you want to maintain a respectful distance. It can be kind of like saying, "I don't really want to be your friend." And that's certainly not a message I want to be sending.

Sigh. Some day, I'm hoping, this will all be second nature. Just not yet.