Even after three years here, I'm constantly running afoul of the rhythms of Parisian life. In the provinces, many shops close mid-day to allow Madame or Monsieur to eat a proper lunch. In town, you're much more likely to see hours like these -- shops open at lunchtime and then closed mid afternoon with a reopening towards evening. This is particularly true for food shops including bakeries, butchers, and cheese shops. The chain stores operate on an American model with staggered shifts for their employees. But do yourself a favor and stay out of Monoprix between 12:30 and 2:00 unless you like standing in long lines with the rest of Paris. And definitely go back to the boulangerie for your bread after 6, when fresh batches will be coming out of the oven.
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We just stood in the fast-moving lines of Eric Kayser for a Baguette Monge (well 4 of them actually). It was dark, cold and snowing and the heat from the bread was steaming. Although we looked like the tourists that we were, we finished one before we got to the next corner. It's only been two weeks and it seems like a year ago...
I was quite happy when they decreed that the markets could stay open later and on Sunday, if they so chose.
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